Panther Chameleon – Care, Terrarium, and Diet of the Little Dragons
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This post is dedicated to “Horst,” one of my Panther chameleons. Unfortunately, his tongue shot was malfunctioning. As a result, a slightly stronger emotional bond developed because I had to take more care of him. As a result, I’ve included a few pictures of him in this post and will go into more detail about the care of Panther chameleons!
Introduction: Panther Chameleon – ‘The Little Dragons‘
Chameleons are truly unique creatures thanks to their remarkable abilities. They have now found their way into zoos and are increasingly popular as pets in private homes. Their lightning-fast tongue, acrobat-like clawed feet, fascinating dome-shaped eyes, and extraordinary colors make them a real eye-catcher.
Panther chameleons (Furcifer pardalis) are considered beginner-friendly among chameleon species. This is because the climatic conditions required for keeping them in a terrarium are relatively easy to achieve with the right tools.
Additionally, panther chameleons possess good adaptability, allowing them to become a true companion for the family.
However, it must be said that even Furcifer pardalis requires a certain level of dedication, both in terms of time and finances. This means that the next vacation must be carefully planned, and the electricity bill should not be overlooked.
This implies that you and your family must adapt to the needs of your new companion and be willing to continuously commit to its care.
Introduction to the Evolution and Habitat of Panther Chameleons
Scientific studies suggest that chameleons are approximately 60 million years old. However, some hypotheses indicate that chameleons may have originated before the separation of Madagascar from Africa, which occurred roughly 165 million years ago.
There are differing opinions regarding their origin:
One theory points to East Africa as the place of origin, while another suggests that DNA analyses have traced their evolution and origin to Madagascar.
If chameleons did indeed emerge 165 million years ago, before Madagascar split from Africa, then perhaps we can envision both regions as one united origin. In this view, a shared Africa and Madagascar could represent the ancestral homeland and predominant habitat of chameleon species.
Continental Drift: Shifting Continents, Tectonic Plates, and Islands
Due to the effects of continental drift over millions of years, our little dragons now inhabit a number of islands.
This includes the following examples – Madagascar and its islands:
Nosy Bé
Nosy Mangabe
Nosy Boraha
Nosy Faly
Nosy Mitsio
Nosy Sakatia
Nosy Tanikely
Additionally, the impact of human activity on the distribution of these animals is well-known. As a result, panther chameleons can now also be found in other regions.
In this article, I will focus exclusively on the care and diet of panther chameleons. Many aspects I describe are also applicable to the Yemen chameleon.
Care of Panther Chameleons (Furcifer pardalis)
Today, keeping panther chameleons is no longer a challenge.
In the past, they were often considered impossible to keep, let alone breed successfully.
However, thanks to advances in the industry and growing demand, there is now a wide range of tools, equipment, and dietary supplements available to ensure that keeping them at home can be done successfully.
Terrarium for Chameleons
I won’t be providing a step-by-step guide on how to build a terrarium here.
Instead, you’ll learn what you absolutely need to consider when purchasing or building one yourself.
After all, a chameleon requires a suitable and well-designed home. That’s why it’s essential to carefully read and follow these guidelines. Otherwise, you may only have a short time to enjoy your panther chameleon.
You must have everything set up and ready to go before purchasing a panther chameleon!
“Let me get straight to the point: you cannot simply repurpose an empty aquarium or something similar, decorate it a bit, add some lighting, and call it done. Unfortunately, it doesn’t work like that!”
#Let’s Get Started!
Terrariums for Chameleons: Aim for the Vertical!
When it comes to terrariums for chameleons, we always go vertical—a tall terrarium is essential! Yes, our little dragons love to climb high, even though they occasionally wander along the ground (as they do in the wild).
Thankfully, there are plenty of manufacturers offering suitable terrariums.
Personally, I always recommend a wooden terrarium, such as one made from chipboard with anti-reflective glass panels or plastic panels. It should be well-sealed and properly treated to ensure durability and safety.
The side walls must be smooth to reduce the risk of injury.
Wondering why all this matters and why I recommend it? Don’t worry, I’ll explain everything in a moment.
Be prepared, though, to make modifications to store-bought terrariums. While I built mine entirely from scratch, buying one will save you a lot of effort and may require fewer adjustments. Ultimately, the choice is yours!
What About a Glass Terrarium?
Ah yes, glass terrariums can look absolutely stunning—but I have a major issue with using glass for chameleon care.
The problem lies with the reflection effect! A chameleon cannot distinguish whether its reflection is a predator or its own image. It simply doesn’t have that ability.
And this leads to stress. We absolutely don’t want stress to become a permanent condition for your reptile. If you were to hold a mirror up to your chameleon, it would puff up its throat and display such vibrant rainbow colors that you might think it’s about to mutate into a monster!
The reflection effect is a big no-go. We need to ensure that it’s minimized—or, ideally, avoided altogether.
With a glass terrarium, this means you’ll need to do extra work. Fortunately, there are ways to line the walls.
The most affordable option is cork or cork tiles, which have several benefits. They help regulate humidity by absorbing and releasing moisture, and they also increase the usable space for the chameleon—and for its prey. This means feeder insects won’t always have to be chased along the floor or branches.
From experience, I know that certain stress factors in a home environment can’t always be avoided. If a panther chameleon experiences excessive stress over time, it could result in an early death. I’ll address other stress factors later in the text.
Another issue with glass terrariums is the lid design. If the lid is made entirely of glass rather than a mesh screen (like stainless steel or aluminum mesh), you’ll run into problems with lighting.
When lights are mounted outside the lid, dirt buildup reduces light output, and the glass partially filters out the UV rays that your chameleon needs for its health. This is far from ideal.
If you still decide to go with a glass terrarium, be prepared for extra effort and additional expenses. You’ll need to build a solid interior structure and replace the lid with a stainless steel or aluminum mesh cover for proper ventilation and lighting. Wondering what mesh is? Let me explain that next!
Ventilation of the Terrarium and Mesh
Gaze Mesh at Amazon.de
While panther chameleons thrive in fresh air, they are fortunately not overly sensitive to stagnant air. However, it’s still crucial to ensure proper air circulation for your little dragon.
This doesn’t mean we want to create drafts! The goal is to remove stale, “used” air and replace it with fresh air—without losing control over humidity levels. After misting the terrarium, we don’t want all the moisture to dissipate within minutes.
The solution? Mesh screens, commonly referred to as “Gaze.”
What is Gaze? It’s essentially a fine, grid-like fabric that allows for airflow while maintaining the enclosure’s integrity. However, you must always use stainless steel or aluminum mesh for your terrarium.
Why these materials?
Plastic mesh can be chewed through by feeder insects, leading to unexpected visitors in your home. (“Honey, there’s a grasshopper on the bed!”)
Other metals are prone to rust, which can be hazardous to your chameleon’s health.
By incorporating Gaze into your terrarium design, you’ll maintain a healthy environment that balances fresh air, insulation, and humidity—ensuring your panther chameleon remains happy and stress-free.
How much mesh area should you install?
Actually, the more the better. There are also frame designs, such as terrariums made entirely from aluminum frames, with almost exclusively mesh walls.
This is of course a great free-range enclosure. However, there is a downside: you can’t build it out as beautifully and diversely.
It’s pretty logical, since the walls are made of mesh, and you can’t really secure branches or cork (due to vibrations and movement of the material).
Therefore, such a frame construction is best suited as a free-range enclosure, particularly if the dragon is allowed to occasionally be outside in the summer (though not necessarily in direct sunlight) on a balcony or terrace.
Be generous with the mesh
A lot of mesh on the lid and side walls is a must-do! Or a must-have if you’re buying a ready-made terrarium.
It’s also great to add mesh to the back wall, if you want to. There’s no need to stick to exact measurements. Just be generous when applying the mesh yourself.
“Won’t I lose humidity and temperature?”
Yes and no! And “yes and no” is good. Because we don’t want to constantly have high humidity (mold).
Your Panther chameleon wants to breathe fresh air. The moisture release is mostly handled by the floor and the plants.
If you cover with cork tiles, you’re adding an extra benefit.
It’s good to know that warm air can hold more moisture than cold air.
Returning to the question “Won’t I lose humidity and temperature?”: Mesh is not the same as an open window. The mesh can retain some moisture, while still ensuring good air exchange, and the terrarium won’t cool down too quickly.
Promise: At the end of this text, I’ll provide a list of my equipment so you can quickly get an overview.
Size – What Dimensions Should the Terrarium for Chameleons Have?
REPITERRA Wooden Terrarium – Amazon.de
I will now give you a minimum size. This minimum size I consider to be the minimum requirement, but it is not a law.
Some people distinguish the measurements between male and female animals, but let’s not waste time worrying about this and get to the reality.
For younger and also fully grown chameleons, I would always recommend at least a size of 100 x 50 x 100 cm (width x depth x height) for the terrarium.
For still small youngsters, you absolutely need to dimension it a bit smaller, otherwise, you might encounter problems during feeding.
If you don’t want to buy a second terrarium and decide on a large one, but buy a small and very young chameleon, then you will need to assist it with feeding!
You can do this by getting a wooden tweezer and offering the food to the chameleon. The advantage is, you build trust and get the reptile tame this way. With a wooden tweezer, you reduce the risk of injury, which is why I wouldn’t necessarily recommend a metal feeding tweezer.
Regarding trust: My “Horst” now likes to climb around on my head.
If you are buying a terrarium for any kind of chameleon, then remember that the height of the terrarium is preferred.
You should definitely ensure a substrate height of at least 13–15 cm or more.
A higher substrate filling increases the well-being of the animals, especially for females, where the effect is decisive (eggs). I use good plant soil as substrate.
In addition, the soil in Horst’s terrarium is home to a millipede. It basically acts as a substitute gardener there.
Preparation before buying a terrarium for chameleons
“Here, I will explain in detail what you must consider when purchasing or building a terrarium yourself:”
Minimum size to consider: 100 × 50 × 100 cm (width × depth × height). There is no “too big”.
For very young animals, you can size the terrarium a bit smaller until you can observe that the young animals do not have any problems hunting on their own. Otherwise, assist feeding with tongs.
Choose the right terrarium for yourself, pay attention to the material to avoid mirror effects, and also ensure proper sealing so no mold develops.
Think carefully about whether the gaze (mesh) is sufficient. If you have a terrarium made of chipboard or other wood, you can still expand it easily before moving the reptile in.
Gaze, lots of gaze. Stainless steel and aluminum gaze are worth mentioning twice here, otherwise your dragon might suffocate from stale air. You might have to make adjustments yourself with purchased terrariums.
Do you have enough space in your apartment/house?
Is it possible to place the terrarium in a quiet area? Reduce potential stress factors to a minimum (more about this later).
A high substrate filling increases the comfort atmosphere for reptiles, but keep in mind that if you fill 20 cm of plant soil or similar, those 20 cm will be missing in height for setting up.
Ensure that your tank allows a sufficient substrate fill.
How do you plan to mist in the future? Hand spraying or a misting system?
The terrarium for the chameleon is now built or bought
Set up the terrarium according to your preferences. A high substrate fill enhances the comfort atmosphere. Add tall and dense plants, and provide the chameleon with climbing and walking opportunities, such as bamboo tubes, branches, vines, and more.
You can upgrade your terrarium with affordable cork tiles for the walls.
If possible, install the lighting outside the terrarium, for example, at the top of the lid. Be sure not to have a glass pane between the light source, as it would cause us to lose valuable UV rays from the UV lamp.
Lighting and Temperature of the Terrarium for Panther Chameleons
The temperature window is quite narrow, but it is easy to maintain.
Panther chameleons will love you if you don’t go to extremes.
Not going to extremes means avoiding temperatures below 16°C for extended periods.
Also, on the upper end, you don’t need to overdo it and should not offer permanent temperatures of 40°C.
Temperature in the Terrarium
Warm phases: Warm and humid phases (during the day) with temperatures ranging from 22 – 35°C.
Cooler phases: Cool and drier phases (evenings and nights) with temperatures ranging from 18 – 25°C.
Panther chameleons like to warm up in the morning if the night was cold and then seek direct “sunbathing”.
Make sure to provide enough light and warmth in the morning to afternoon. After that, you can gradually reduce the temperature. If you are using multiple heat sources in the form of lighting, you can consider turning off one of them.
Use one or more thermometers at different locations and heights to measure the temperature.
Lighting the Terrarium
To light the terrarium, you can use high-wattage fluorescent tubes. However, I only use HQI spotlights and a UV lamp during the day.
HQL or HQI lamps are incredibly natural in light output. HQI is the better option when it comes to light efficiency. HQL lamps are simply not efficient enough. Do not buy HQL anymore!
HQI spotlights are not only great for light output, they also provide comfortable warmth. For example, Osram UV-filtered HQI lamps, especially due to the UVC radiation.
A UV lamp that only emits UVA and UVB rays ensures proper bone development for the chameleon.
You ultimately need bulbs that provide good illumination for the terrarium while not neglecting UVA and UVB rays.
I have two HQI spotlights and a UV lamp that emits only UVA and UVB rays installed.
For night use, I also use two night lamps. One simulates the moon for observation purposes, and another provides warmth.
If the Panther chameleon needs warmth at night, it will naturally move toward the warming night lamp. Naturally, the lamp must be positioned so the reptile doesn’t burn itself but still receives warmth.
This ensures a 24-hour cycle for my Panther chameleon.
I have noticed that it likes to sit by the warm lamp at night. I personally also like to be covered up at night!
Keep in mind that chameleons are ectothermic animals. Their body temperature is entirely dependent on external factors.
Using timers to control the day and night cycle can save you a lot of daily effort.
Typically, I mostly use just one HQI spotlight. That is more than sufficient. If you’re also interested in HQI lighting, don’t skimp on the HQI bulbs. I strongly recommend that you pay attention to UV filtration and protective glass when choosing HQI bulbs.
If such a cheap bulb breaks, I hope it doesn’t release dangerous mercury concentrations, as quality products are designed not to exceed the German limits. For your health!
I’ll add an informational link about lamp breakage at the end of the article.
Humidity for Panther Chameleons
Humidity is very important for Panther chameleons, as it also contributes to their well-being and hydration.
We must at least try to create a moist and partially saturated atmosphere in the enclosure at times.
Therefore, maintain a humidity level of 55-65% during dry periods. Spray at least twice a day, preferably in the morning and afternoon, and create a temporary humid phase where the relative humidity should rise to 70-90%.
Due to the nighttime cooling, it is possible for the humidity in the terrarium to rise to 80-100%. Don’t worry, that’s perfectly fine.
Allow your terrarium to also “dry out”. Avoid a constantly damp climate, as it can lead to a proliferation of pathogens, causing your chameleon to become ill and mold to form everywhere.
At this point, you’ll understand that it’s crucial for your terrarium to be sealed with non-toxic (no toilet silicone) silicone and also impregnated.
For glass terrariums, you don’t need to worry about impregnation anymore. Some terrarium DIY enthusiasts even add a water drainage system.
However, with high substrate filling and the drying out process I’ve already mentioned, a drainage system becomes unnecessary.
If your terrarium is densely planted, you can expect that your chameleon will naturally seek out the moist spots in the terrarium during the drying out process.
This is a natural behavior, and the chameleon will do this on its own if it feels the need. Otherwise, Panther chameleons handle the drying process exceptionally well!
The Climate in the Terrarium – A Detailed Look
Spray in the morning and afternoon.
Moist phase: 70-90% humidity.
Dry phase: 55-65% humidity.
At night, humidity increases because cooler air can hold less moisture. This is absolutely natural.
Use a hygrometer to measure the relative humidity.
Never create constant humidity in the terrarium. Even all the mesh you will likely install won’t protect you from mold and pathogens.
Allow the terrarium to dry out. Your chameleon knows how to handle it if it gets too dry for a short time, as long as you have planted it densely. The moisture, for example, varies between the leaves of the plants.
Did you also know: Panther chameleons are basically solitary creatures!
Diet and Water Supply of Panther Chameleons
Panther chameleons mainly feed on live invertebrates. However, it is also not uncommon in the wild for them to occasionally consume small mammals, birds, and reptiles.
Here is a list of invertebrates, some of which you can also buy in certain pet stores:
Woodlice
Crickets
House crickets
Cockroaches
Flies
Stick insects
Black beetle larvae
A young Panther chameleon that is still growing should be fed daily. For an adult chameleon, you should incorporate 1 to 2 fasting days per week, depending on your assessment of the chameleon’s health condition.
For food, I like to use crickets, house crickets, and cockroaches.
They are easy to obtain from pet stores and can be enhanced by “gut loading.”
You can feed crickets with grasses, wild herbs, and salads, except for cabbage and leek. This increases their nutritional value for our Panther chameleon.
Cockroaches and house crickets can be well fed with fruits and vegetables.
Crickets and house crickets can also be kept on whole grain flakes or bran.
There are also so-called insect jellies that can be given to insects to eat, which definitely helps them live longer.
If you want to catch crickets or similar insects from the meadow yourself, be aware: Do not catch any insects that are near roads, sprayed or contaminated areas, or fields. And blowflies are a definite no-go! They pose a risk of disease!
If you want to simplify the work in between, it’s worth using supplements in the form of powder, such as Korvimin ZVT, which I also use regularly.
You can combine the use of powder and supplementing the insects. However, if you expose your chameleon to a lot of UV light, you should be cautious not to add too much vitamin D3 through the food as well, as this could lead to poisoning.
For example, Korvimin ZVT+ contains vitamin D3, which is why my UV lamp doesn’t run continuously every day.
I also only use the powder 2 to 3 times a week to dust the insects and then feed them.
So far, this approach has worked very well.
Purchasing a Panther Chameleon
Congratulations!
Now you have everything prepared, and you are absolutely top-equipped!
You can now start looking for a Panther Chameleon. I’ll give you a few tips before buying from a breeder or a specialized pet store.
Examine the chameleon closely and assess its appearance. You should also consider its current age.
If you are unsure about its external condition, compare it with others of the same age. Observe the Panther Chameleon for some time. Pay attention to how it moves.
Have a feeding test conducted! Yes, exactly, let the Panther Chameleon eat live in front of your eyes!
You want to know if its tongue mechanism is fully functional!
For example, my “Horst” has a defective tongue. However, I consciously bought Horst like that.
I’m curious to see what changes I can bring to the animal and whether I can influence its condition.
Otherwise, he is in top shape, but he often needs my helping hand to catch his food. One of the reasons we’re probably best friends, and he loves climbing around on my head.
Some Equipment from “Horst”
“As promised, I have made a list of my equipment for ‘Horst’ here, as far as I could search the internet for it. Perhaps you can also make use of some of these items.”
2 x HQI-TS light bulbs 70W (TS means double-mounted) – for these, you’ll also need a matching spotlight and ballast, and you will probably have to put in some work. I would save this step now and buy a complete set since back then, it didn’t exist. A complete set includes everything you need, even the ballast. With this, you can get UVA and UVB.
I have really wide reflector housings, which this set doesn’t have, and I don’t need additional lighting. However, I would recommend installing a Daylight fluorescent tube if you’re not satisfied with the lighting in the upper part of the terrarium.
WARNING! As I mentioned in the text, if you install this complete set above a glass pane, you can forget about the UV radiation! So, use mesh or install this lamp INSIDE the terrarium.
There’s also a lamp from the same manufacturer with the same power but double the beam angle. You’ll need to buy this one separately.
I still use a UV lamp as needed because my HQI bulb is UV-filtered. Since I also use supplements containing Vitamin D3, I don’t use the UV lamp constantly. Here you will find the matching reflector.
Stainless steel mesh for air exchange.
Exo Terra Night Glo 50W as a night lamp and also as a heat lamp, plus some moonlight to help with better observation.
